Our last stop in Cambodia brought us to the aforementioned town of Kampot, of peppercorn fame. We spent a few relaxing days on the riverside, during which we enjoyed the slow pace of life, ate many pepper-infused meals, drank excellent local coffee, and blissed out on some of the most incredible sunsets we’ve seen all year.

The one excursion from the town saw us renting a scooter and scooting up a nearby hill to see what was billed as a crumbling midcentury resort and hill station. Unfortunately, progress is making its steady march forward, and we passed some hideous new development on our way up and found the hotel amid a fresh round of construction, trading its signature orange lichen facade for a web of scaffolding and drab concrete. We still enjoyed the ride up and the expansive views all the way to the ocean, and managed to find one decaying building not yet resigned to refurbishment.

We also dined on a ridiculously delicious rack of pork ribs, a meal that left us full and happy for another reason as well: we shared a table with a British guy who has been traveling for six years, and who was going home the next day. Talking with him about our thoughts and feelings on traveling and places we’ve both been to left us with a feeling of awe and inspiration of his travels, and helped us to understand our own trip a little better.

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